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View Full Version : Skookum Flats: Back on the Trail at Long Last


Webmaster
05-16-2007, 07:26 AM
Spring always invites several trips along different stretches of the Skookum trail. This trail officially spans roughly 8.2 miles mostly along the White River, one way. Skookum starts a little way back on USFS-73 and meanders into Mt Rainier park, where it diverges into a number of other trails. Unofficially you can explore the White River area for many miles west of Skookum up to the Emmons Glacier, which is where the White River originates. There are also a number of access points for Skookum. No matter where you start or end time on this trail, Skookum offers a really nice way to explore the woods along the river. The word “Skookum” has several meanings. One of them is roughly the equivalent of “first rate” or “cool.” Skookum trail is both of these and more.

But the trail is way too long for most hike end to end in a day. After all, who wants to walk over 16 miles in a day? Hiking is always about the journey and I set a goal of selecting an amount of time and see where the trail takes me. A leasurly 2 to 3 hours overall makes for an excellent early season outing.

Walking on a forest trail has two primary hazards. One is that tree roots or burl can be painfully slippery when wet. Slip and you may not know what happened until you’re on the ground. Don’t ask me how I came to know this. The second hazard is that despite the risk, walking through the woods is powerfully addictive!

On this day in late April a couple of willing friends and me drove to the intersection of SR-410 and USFS-73, then continued about a half mile back USFS-73, crossed a bridge and parked the car a little beyond the bridge. I had to remind myself to put the Forest Service parking permit so it was visible through the windshield. The temperature was in the low 50s and there was intermittent sun through broken clouds. We brought something to drink and a home-made treat for the trail and then headed onto the woods. The area has had a few dry days and the trail is in pretty good shape. Still a tad soft in spots but not goopy.

http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/Skook1-Mid.jpg

The trail has a delightful “nature your face” feel right from the outset with rustic bridges to guide you over stream pathways.

This stretch of Skookum meanders through miles of 2nd and old growth trees along the river bed of the White River. The dense forest, river basin, and symphony of sounds coming from the White River helps me to drop my adult preoccupations and I begin to experience the area with simple wonder. Trees beyond count tower overhead and into the distance. I feel enthusiasm in each step. Something about the woods makes my fixation with daily responsibilities vanish from my thoughts. Rather than thinking about work related issues, I gain a sense of adventure from the sights and sounds of the river basin.

http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/skook10-Mid.jpg

The grade along Skookum is mild, and our destination was a leisurely hour and a half out (a little over 2 miles). We enjoyed the woods, the major changes to the river basin, and, of course, occasionally surprising changes to the trail. A lot of trees have been knocked down over the winter and many cross the trail. Some are pretty easy to step over and some take some effort. While we were hiking, we encountered a volunteer group that was clearing some of the fallen trees from the trail. I think they were WTA members. We stopped long enough to thank them for their hard work and to help push a 30’ long 3’ thick freshly cut tree segment off the trail. Moving this big stick took a directed effort, even with 6 people pushing. Ultimately the fallen tree yielded to our combined strength.

On a larger scale, much of the river basin has been reformed due to the force of November’s deluge. Along this stretch of Skookum, there is a lot of change as evidenced by the “new” water fall and river channel the waterfall empties into, photographed below. This waterfall was enticing. In cities the world over, groups spend fortunes beyond count to make pleasing waterfall displays. Some use whole blocks of city space for this purpose. Waterfalls are magical and create a powerful attraction for all who approach. It is almost impossible to walk past a waterfall without stopping to look, and listen, and feel the misty air.


http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/skook7-Mid.jpg

A little further up, a short stretch of the trail that once offered a nice overlook, about 10’ above the river bed ends abruptly. It is another of the spots that hint at the massive runoff due to the rainstorm last November.


http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/skook8-Mid.jpg

Someone tied hot pink marker flags to tree branches near this washout to help divert all to a newly created parallel trail. This is about as good as it gets for trail signage!


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In the woods, spring presents itself in subtle ways compared to lower elevations. Down the hill, flowers are exploding into bloom. For now, you’ll find sparse flowers but lots of new plant growth. A month ago some of this area was covered by snow and it still receives snowfall occassionally, so comparitively late bloomers abound. Around here the primary flower show starts in a few weeks and stretches until September. And what a show it will be! Greenwater has some of the most breathtaking wildflower flower scenery to be found. I predict this will be a near record year for wild flowers.


http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/skook11-Mid.jpg

One of the things about Greenwater that brings delight is that many of life’s lessons are presented in simple and graceful ways. One part of the trail has a unique aural dimension because of a tall and long rock face that reflects and amplifies sounds in the area, and the river in particular. The closer you get to this rock expanse the louder the sound of moving water becomes. It sounds like the living stone is where the river runs. Of course there is no water anywhere near the rock wall. The illusion is so strong that it creates a powerful incentive to believe what you hear is true, even when you can clearly see that it isn’t. All and all an excellent example of how our perceptions can be easilly deceived.

One of the more sound intensive places on this stretch is the mighty Skookum falls. Many are familiar with this falls from SR-410. Dropping about 250 feet, Skookum falls is our outward destination for today, and we stopped to enjoy the sights, have a drink and a home made treat before turning back. The treat is called Carla’s Carnal Carmel Corn (http://explore-greenwater.com/community/showthread.php?t=176) and there is a recpie for it at the linked web site. This is a great taste combination of sweet, salt, carbs and protein. Easy to make. Easy to pack, and perfect for the trail.


http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/skook4-Mid.jpg

The Skookum trail can guide you to the base of the falls, and, if you want, you can continue along the trail for many more miles. There is a bridge a ways beyond Skookum falls, that crosses the White River. The bridge is called the Ranger Creek Connector Bridge, but at this point in time the bridge mostly exists in name only, as it was heavily damaged by the November flood. Due to this washout, the the nearest roadway exit to the east is at Buck Creek, a few miles east of the falls.


http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/SkookBridge-Mid.jpg

But we weren’t going to Buck Creek today. The trip back has a pleasant downhill grade which makes the pace a little more lively and fun. It is always a pleasure to find that the trip back is every bit as scenic as the trip in. The only disappointment to the day is that the outing was over far too soon. Still, at the end of this adventure, I was pleasantly exercised and relaxed, and feeling pretty good.

To add another moment to this fun adventure, on the drive back we happened across a local heroine enjoying another waterfall. The wonder of Greenwater is that there is always something memorable around nearly every bend. Who could ask for a nicer day to put boots to the trail?

http://explore-greenwater.com/pix/ElkWaterfall-Mid.jpg

engerski
06-14-2007, 08:27 PM
thanks for the Skookum article. Great photos, too. Especially nice for me as I'm presently not in hiking mode due to a total knee replacement. I have always loved hiking and mountain biking on Skookum. Maybe by August or September I can tackle that one again, on foot at least.